Minneapolis, MN 55410
Phone: 612-926-2800
Fax: 612-926-2804 www.cafetwentyeight.com
Café Twenty Eight is an inviting little restaurant in the Linden Hills neighborhood of Minneapolis. It’s located in a historic old firehouse, which may sound a little bit peculiar for a restaurant, but it really works for them, and they’ve managed to convert a good deal of the space (which, I imagine, was once taken up by fire engines) into a really beautiful patio. Walk inside, and you’re greeted by a big metal fire pole, and the dining area to the right is cozy and dominated by a big bar at the back.
We first discovered Café Twenty Eight last year when the weather was just starting to turn cold, and we’ve been dying to get back ever since. The website advises reservations, so that’s what we did. They don’t take reservations for the patio, however—a shame, but at least they say so right on their website (unlike Salut in St. Paul). We took our seats inside, but we were close enough to the patio that it practically felt like we were sitting outside!
The first thing that makes Café Twenty Eight stand out in my mind is the excellent beer list—and if you read this blog regularly, you know how important that is to me (in fact, I’m probably beginning to sound like a broken record). Surly brewer Todd Haug is co-owner, so no surprise there. I’m a little more uncertain about the wine list—it seems a little skimpy, but my sense is that they pick their wines carefully. Selections on both lists are given a little description so you know what you’re getting. I went for an Orval Trappist ale, and Sarah got a Chilean Sauvignon Blanc. We also ordered some calamari for an appetizer. For dinner, I ended up getting the salmon, which was on special that night, and Sarah decided to go a little lower on the price range with organic chicken tacos.
The calamari was delicious—lightly breaded and soft throughout. I’m not sure how well it paired with the Orval, but that beer can stand up to almost anything. It’s a dry-hopped Belgian ale with a slight tart funk (that’s a good thing). The host, who wandered over at some point to ask us how we were doing, mentioned casually that I was drinking one of his favorite beers. I always enjoy the opportunity to talk to staff about what’s offered on the menu—it shows that you’re in good hands! Sarah’s Sauv Blanc, meanwhile, was crisp and heavy on the grapefruit: a tasting note that was mentioned in the wine list.
Our entrees were also strong—nothing out of this world, but strong. My salmon was cooked perfectly, and the parmesan risotto it came with was a good addition. Sarah’s organic chicken tacos were also tasty, big and filling, and, it should be mentioned, cheap at $10. We like restaurants that offer upscale and downscale options, and Café Twenty Eight is one of those restaurants. I got salmon, Sarah got tacos, and most of the people around us seemed to be getting burgers—all in a comfortable, sophisticated atmosphere.
Sarah and Andrew’s Verdict: B+. Cafe Twenty Eight doesn’t get a lot of press, and it should. Like we said, nothing out of this world, but strong. The wine and beer lists are deliberately chosen, the staff is knowledgeable and helpful, and they deliver good food at comparatively reasonable prices. Comparable to The Craftsman on Lake Street, but with price points anywhere from $2-5 cheaper.
